Penang's Final Flourishes: Durian Delights, Enduring Loyalties, and Artistic Farewells

Monday, June 17th, 2024

Bidding farewell to Chew Jetty, we retraced our steps towards The Prestige, a final act of logistics before our culinary swan song. Carmen, ever the culinary sherpa, had secured a reservation at Winn's Cafe, another foray into the alluring world of modern Nyonya cuisine. It seemed our affection for Peranakan flavors had blossomed into a full-fledged love affair.

En route, a tantalizing diversion presented itself – a stall hawking the elusive "Forest Durian." These weren't your typical, cultivated fruits; these were rebels, foraged from the wild heart of the forest. Each bite, like Forrest Gump's proverbial box of chocolates, promised an unknown adventure. Carmen and I, undeterred by the potential durian overdoses plaguing the rest of the entourage, succumbed to temptation. One durian morphed into two, a testament to our unyielding durian devotion. 

Next stop: Ghee Hiang, a venerable pastry shop on Beach Street, boasting a legacy that stretched back 168 years. A box of cookies found its way into my bag, but it was the human stories that truly captivated me. The lady at the counter, with a casual ease that spoke volumes, revealed a tenure of over two decades. Adjacent to her stood a gentleman, his unwavering presence a testament to an extraordinary feat – over 40 years spent within these very walls. "The boss must be a good man," I blurted, and a chorus of agreement erupted from both staff members. I captured a photograph of the loyal See Thoe, a silent testament to a disappearing breed – the employee who forges a lifelong bond with a single employer. 

Winn's Cafe awaited, a stark contrast to the traditional elegance of Kebaya Dining Room. As with any culinary odyssey, repeated exposure to a specific cuisine leads to a heightened awareness of its subtleties. Peranakan food, like pizza with its thin-crust versus deep-dish debate, offered a universe of variations beyond the simple surface. Here, the dishes were infused with a modern cafe aesthetic, a contemporary twist on a time-honored tradition. I won't delve into the specifics – suffice it to say, Winn's Cafe offered a refreshing perspective on Peranakan fare, a fusion of heritage and modern sensibilities. 

Art, it seemed, wasn't confined to the city walls. Upstairs, a captivating exhibition showcased the portraits of Tong Yoke Meang. It was heartening to see restaurants embracing the arts, fostering a dialogue between culinary and visual creativity.

Ah Teik Chai Durian, our next destination, catered specifically to Singaporean / Tourists clientele. While pricey, their packing techniques were nothing short of artistry. Each durian, meticulously chosen, was dissected and the seeds shrink-wrapped, creating a series of meticulously encased rolls. These, in turn, were nestled in a box, further cocooned in plastic shrink wrap – a four-layered symphony designed to vanquish any potential durian aroma. Though our Grab driver, with a touch of mischievous delight, tried to steer us away from this "expensive" establishment, the sheer ingenuity of their packaging won us over. 

Our final durian rendezvous complete, we craved a sugary epilogue. Nely's Passion Heart, renowned for its delectable cakes, beckoned. Nely herself, a whirlwind of warmth, materialized with the perfect recommendation – Kaya Pandan Cake. It was, quite simply, divine. 

This, then, was the final flourish on our Penang adventure. August, Asialink Sketchwalk with its promise of new discoveries, already glimmered on the horizon. A slight delay on our Singapore Airlines flight (SQ141) was a mere blip on the radar. Safe and sound, we touched down in Singapore, our hearts (and stomachs) brimming with the vibrant memories of Penang's culinary and cultural tapestry.  

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Penang's Farewell Song: A Last Hurrah of Art, Noodles, and Tourist Traps

Monday, 17th June, 2024

Penang's humid embrace loosened its hold as we, the ever-restless entourage, finally stirred for our last walkabout 8:30 am. A 9 pm Singapore Airlines flight loomed (a carrier many consider the world's finest, though such pronouncements are best left to seasoned jet-setters).

YitPeng, often mistaken for a professional globetrotter, surprised many when revealing her former life as an IT whiz at BaxGlobal (now part of DB Shenker), a career she abandoned upon Shiqin's, our daughter, arrival. Today, she planned a breakfast rendezvous with colleagues, some retired, from those bygone days. 

The rest of us – Carmen, Nadine, Ruth, and myself – opted for a pilgrimage to Armenian Street, George Town's famed art haven. Here, the murals of Ernest Zacharevic, a celebrated Lithuanian artist, adorned the walls. Time had left its mark, the colors a little faded, but that only added to their melancholic charm, a testament to the ephemeral nature of beauty.

Our artistic explorations culminated at Chew Jetty, the very same haven of Char Kway Teow I'd chronicled earlier. We settled in for a single plate, only to be met with Nadine's knowing murmur – a prelude to the inevitable avalanche of culinary delights. True to form, two plates of Char Kway Teow materialized, joined by a bowl of curry noodles and a scattering of other enticing morsels. We polished it all off, fueled by the free soft drinks pilfered from The Prestige's mini-bar (a testament to the Singaporean love for a good deal – well played, The Prestige, you scored brownie points once more).

Ah, the serendipity of travel! There, nestled beside the Char Kway Teow stall, a scene unfolded that tickled my writer's fancy. A photographer, all crisp lines and professional demeanor, was busy capturing the joy of a young couple's wedding photos. But wait, there was more! Another photographer, perhaps an amateur or a passerby seized by the moment, strolled by and snapped a picture of the entire setup. 

Intrigued by this unexpected meta-narrative, I couldn't resist joining the visual dance. Two clicks of my camera – one capturing the fleeting contemplation of the passing photographer, the other his act of capturing the wedding scene itself.  There you have it – a photographer taking a photo of another photographer taking wedding photos. A delightfully recursive tableau, a self-referential loop frozen in time.  

Whether this linguistic acrobatics plunges us into the abyss of confusion, well, that depends on the viewer. But for me, it was a moment of pure, visual amusement, a reminder that the world is brimming with unexpected stories waiting to be captured, even within the most ordinary of settings. 

Now, sated and slightly weary, we ventured down the jetty itself. It felt a touch tourist-trodden, but who are we to judge the locals' desperate attempts to eke out a living? The walk proved unexpectedly charming – an adorned cat basking in tourist adoration, the newlyweds flitting in and out of view, glimpses into the lives of the jetty dwellers, and the inevitable rows of trinkets vying for our tourist dollars.  

Penang's final melody was a curious mix – artistic musings, the comforting hum of familiar flavors, and the clatter of commerce in a bustling tourist trap. It was a fitting farewell to an island that had surprised and delighted us at every turn. 

#wheeteck #wheetecktravelogue #penangoncemore

Penang Awakes: Observations and Life

Monday, 17th June, 2024

A sliver of pre-dawn light peeked through the curtains, the clock a harsh reminder of 6:30 am. Hari Raya Haji, a public holiday in Malaysia, but sleep apparently hadn't received the memo. The "entourage" slumbered on, victims of last night's culinary adventures. This, however, was a prime opportunity – a chance to observe life before the tourist hordes descended.

A quick selfie in front of The Prestige, a narcissistic indulgence perhaps, but a ritual nonetheless. The streets were stirring, shops begrudgingly opening their shutters. Observing, truly observing, is a skill most lack. They see, but they don't truly see. A constant refrain on my YouTube channel, a reminder to myself as much as anyone.

Joggers pounded the pavement, a rhythmic counterpoint to the city's awakening. A lone man sat at a stall, his breakfast untouched, eyes fixed on some unseen horizon. Sleeplessness, perhaps? Or deeper troubles? The curse of a trained eye – the constant game of deciphering the stories etched on faces, a remnant of my "Critical Behaviour Interviews" days. 

Veloo Villas beckoned, the promise of Roti Jala, a delightful web of crispy delight. Alas, fate had other plans. Dosai it would be, accompanied by a trio of curries – the familiar comfort of dahl, the comforting warmth of chicken, and the unknown adventure of fish. A mental breakdown, a travel writer's tic:

Dahl – the earthy lentil base, a symphony of mildness, the occasional burst of sweetness a welcome surprise. Chicken – the ever-reliable warrior, a dance of spice and savoriness, the richness of coconut milk adding a touch of creamy indulgence. Fish – the enigma, a potential tango of tang and spice, the flaky promise waiting to be explored.

Back to the hotel, a leisurely stroll punctuated by observations. Pigeons cooed, oblivious to the fluttering flags – the Malaysian colors a vibrant contrast to the serene blue of Penang. Street art, these unexpected installations, defied categorization, a testament to the city's unyielding creative spirit.

Penang's flag: a story in three colors. Light blue, the sea's endless embrace, a whisper of the island's isolation. White, a stark plea for peace, races live in harmony. Yellow, a burst of sunshine, a beacon of opportunity, perhaps a touch of boosterism. But the areca-nut palm, the pokok pinang, that's more than a symbol. It's Penang's name, its heritage, a reminder etched in green on fabric. This flag's not just cloth, it's a poem, a whisper of the island's soul waiting to be unraveled.

The day was already shaping up to be a delightful assault on the senses. First, the quiet hum of pre-dawn Penang, then the culinary adventure, and now, the visual feast offered by the streets. Back to the room, a quick update on the ever-hungry maw of the internet, then perhaps a nudge towards the "entourage." Today, Penang promised more discoveries, more stories waiting to be unearthed. 

#wheeteck #wheetecktravelogue #penangoncemore