Sunday, 16th June 2024
After that, ahem, "successful" durian assault, we found ourselves at the Craft Batik place. Batik, the dyed cloth with swirling patterns – we were given a quick tour of the factory floor too. Though I have to admit, some of those Tan Thean Song pieces were really good. Forgettable souvenir or not, I couldn't resist a purchase of Thean Song’s postcards. Back at the hotel, the usual – blog posts hammered out, the humdrum of the digital nomad life.
Seven pm rolled around, and we cashed in those welcome drink vouchers at the Glasshouse. Wine? Welcome drinks? We were pleasantly surprised. The Prestige knows how to play its guests, I'll give them that. The entourage, bless their Nyonya taste buds, arrived not long after. Group photo op, the usual.
Dinner was at the Kebaya Dining Room, a reservation courtesy of YitPeng. Nyonya cuisine, was it? The place oozed atmosphere – Peranakan furniture piled high, enough chinoiserie to make a Beijing emperor blush. A guzheng player twanged away in the centre, setting the mood for a truly, authentically Penang Peranakan experience (albeit, Chinesefied with the pentatonic music).
Stepping into the Kebaya Dining Room was like entering a faded colonial dream. The heritage building, restored to its former glory, boasted a high-ceilinged room that dripped with extravagance – crystal chandeliers glittered overhead, and scarlet velvet drapes hung like stage curtains. The menu, thankfully, was less theatrical. A concise selection of Peranakan classics, with a surprising nod to vegetarian options, promised a more grounded experience.
We opted for a cross-section of the offerings: chicken goreng, the familiar comfort of fried chicken, hopefully elevated. Confit beef buah keluak jam – an intriguing prospect, the earthy black bean paste given a French twist. Gulai tumis pomfret, which quickly became the group favorite, a symphony of flavors no doubt. Prawn geng, a classic Peranakan prawn curry, hopefully retaining its robust soul. Accompanying these were the usual suspects – a smattering of greens, the smoky char of grilled eggplant, and perhaps a kerabu green mango salad for a touch of pucker.
Kebaya, it seemed, aimed to bridge the gap between tradition and trendy innovation. Owned by Christopher Ong, the menu boasted a "new approach" to classic Straits Chinese cuisine. French techniques and "innovative products" promised to deliver "surprising twists" on these already fascinating dishes. I confess, a touch of skepticism lingered. Could one truly improve upon the time-tested symphony of flavors that was Nyonya cooking? Or would this be a case of gilding the lily, a descent into pretentious culinary fusion?
By the time we scraped the last morsels from our plates, the skepticism had evaporated entirely. The five of us were a chorus of approval, raving about the entire Kebaya dining experience. The gulai tumis pomfret, the group's undisputed champion, had us all scraping at the communal platter. Each bite was a symphony of textures and tastes – the flaky fish perfectly complemented by the rich, fragrant gravy. Even the prawn geng, a dish I usually find predictable, surprised with its nuanced balance of spice and sweetness.
As for the accompaniments, they were the perfect supporting cast. The greens were fresh and vibrant, the grilled eggplant added a smoky counterpoint, and the kerabu green mango salad provided a refreshing burst of acidity that cut through the richness of the main courses.
Christopher Ong's vision, it seemed, had paid off handsomely. Kebaya wasn't some pretentious fusion nightmare, but a delightful dance between tradition and innovation. The French techniques weren't some flashy overlay, but subtle brushstrokes that heightened the existing flavors. It was a testament to the enduring power of Peranakan cuisine, a reminder that even the most familiar dishes can be reimagined, reinterpreted, and ultimately, even more delicious.
The Kebaya experience left us pleasantly stuffed, a collective sigh of contentment escaping our lips as we pushed back from the table. A walk back to the hotel seemed the only sensible option, especially with the Penang night cooling down to a (relatively) bearable temperature. It wasn't a long trek, and the ten o'clock hour cast a soft, forgiving light on the streets.
The walk offered a final glimpse into George Town's nocturnal life. Interesting shop fronts, some brightly lit, others shrouded in shadows, lined the streets. Dark alleys, like secrets waiting to be unraveled, snaked off here and there. Street art, a vibrant counterpoint to the fading colonial architecture, surprised us in unexpected corners. Murals splashed across walls, installations that defied categorization, a testament to the city's artistic spirit.
By the time we reached the familiar embrace of The Prestige's entrance, fatigue had firmly settled in. The day's adventures, from durian assault to Nyonya delights, weighed heavily on our eyelids. We shuffled in, a weary but contented group, ready for the oblivion of dreamland. The Penang night hummed on outside, but within the cool embrace of the hotel, sleep beckoned, a promise of rejuvenation before our final day.
So, another day in Penang done. Tomorrow, a relaxing one before the flight back to Singapore. The durian, I suspect, will ensure a peaceful journey.
#wheeteck #wheetecktravelogue #penangoncemore
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