2024-07-04 Cirebon Chronicles: Batik Business and Wallet Weeps

Kanoman Batik 54, a haven of textiles and tradition, welcomed us with the warmth of a familiar embrace. The proprietor, a sprightly octogenarian with eyes that sparkled like polished gemstones, launched into an impassioned explanation of their batik-making process. Price, she declared, was a reflection of effort. A single pile on a table held the least labor-intensive pieces, adorned with printed patterns. They were pleasant to the eye, but the true treasures resided in neatly folded stacks tucked within a nearby closet.

(Photo Credit: Cynthia Wee-Hoefer)

The ladies, a gaggle of museum docents with a keen eye for the exquisite, let out a collective gasp upon seeing the hand-drawn classics. The Keraton designs, boasting the imprimatur of the palace itself (Keraton meaning palace in Bahasa Indonesia), were particularly coveted. Clara, with the speed of a hummingbird, snatched up a piece with a matching head covering, a Selendang, as she excitedly declared it in Indonesian.

My ever-patient Yit Peng found a gem of her own, a hand-drawn masterpiece. The lack of a matching Selendang was a minor hurdle, I assured her. Such a beauty deserved a place in her wardrobe, a versatile piece guaranteed to turn heads.  With a gentle nudge, the sale was sealed.

Madam Gouw Yang Giok, a captivating storyteller, held court as I recorded her lineage on camera. Her tale began with her great-grandfather, a Hokkien man from China, who had the audacity to fall for a runaway concubine of the Sultan. Overwhelmed by his harem, the Sultan, so Madam Gouw quipped, probably hadn't even noticed his missing wife. This spirited woman became the matriarch of their family, eventually receiving the coveted Batik-making license – a closely guarded privilege passed down through generations. Today, Madam Gouw, the fourth custodian of this legacy, presides over a dazzling array of batik motifs. Her daughter, though residing in Singapore, continues to be in the Batik business.

From intricate altar cloths to vibrant fashion statements, the stories woven into these fabrics were as diverse as Indonesia itself. Islamic themes danced alongside Taoist symbols like Fu Lu Shou, while the twelve Chinese zodiac animals added a touch of whimsy. Alongside the many hand-drawn Keraton motifs, some are regal but most intricate.

Our successful shopping spree was followed by a delightful feast of Nasi Jamblang – a Cirebon speciality featuring white rice nestled within fragrant teak leaves. These unassuming leaves imparted a subtle, earthy note to the rice, a testament to the enduring power of tradition. The accompanying dishes were a symphony of flavours, worthy of their own chapter, but alas, space on this digital parchment is limited.

The grand finale, however, was a dessert that stole my heart (and possibly another bowl from my stomach). A vibrant melange of sweet, diced mango, pineapple, guava, and jicama ("mengkuang"), bathed in a soul-warming broth.

Bellies full and Batik bags brimming with treasures, we embarked on a two-hour journey to our next stop, punctuated by a pit stop for weary travellers.  The mundane details of the drive and check-in can wait, dear reader. Tomorrow, a new chapter unfolds. 

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