The Ibis' breakfast buffet, a symphony of western and Indonesian dishes did little to rouse the travel-weary. Still, at nine o'clock sharp, we were herded into our chariot, a fourteen-passenger van groaning under the weight of expectation. Today's quest: the fabled house of Go Tik Swan, a name whispered with reverence in the world of Indonesian batik.
Pak Kanjeng Warno, Go Tik Swan's adopted son, awaited us, a kindly figure whose smile crinkled the corners of his eyes. In a voice seasoned by time, he regaled us with tales of his adoptive father, KRT Hardjonagoro, a man who defied convention. Born Chinese in the heart of Javanese culture, Go Tik Swan's fascination with batik blossomed into an unwavering passion. He apprenticed himself to the royal family, learning not just the intricate dance steps of the kraton but also the secrets whispered in the rustle of batik cloth.
But Go Tik Swan wasn't content with mere mastery. A new nation, Indonesia, was rising from the ashes of colonialism. President Sukarno, with his vision of a unified Indonesia, sought a batik design that transcended regional boundaries. Go Tik Swan, with his unique perspective, rose to the challenge. He wove threads from diverse batik traditions across the archipelago, creating a masterpiece that embodied the nation's rich cultural tapestry.
His impact wasn't limited to a single design. Go Tik Swan became a tireless advocate for batik, a bridge between tradition and modernity. He championed forgotten techniques, meticulously documented vanishing patterns, and even dared to introduce vibrant colors that challenged the traditional earthy palette. Yet, his reverence for the past remained undimmed. He learned from the Susuhunan's mother, gaining access to rare, heirloom batik pieces that whispered stories of forgotten dynasties.
The house itself was a museum of curiosities. Statues, their expressions stoic or mischievous, decorated the compound, which is of reasonable size. In the heart of the residence, a hive of activity buzzed. Women, their nimble fingers working with practiced ease, brought batik designs to life. The entire process unfolded before us, the meticulous waxing or “chanting”, even the tracing of designs on new pieces of work – all except the dyeing itself. Alas, it wasn't one of the designated days for this alchemical transformation.
Departure, however, wasn't without its spoils. The house doubled as a shop, and wallets were gleefully emptied. Batik of exquisite beauty and craftsmanship found new homes, smiles blooming on faces as credit cards swiped and Wise accounts sighed.
On the way to our next Museum at Danar Hadi, a curious gate sparked our curiosity. Emblazoned with the letters "PBX," it held a story, Dimas revealed. It stood for Pakubuwono X, a king known for his flamboyant tastes. The first owner of a Benz in these parts, he also harbored a peculiar desire – to be fat. Apparently, a well-rounded physique offered the perfect canvas for displaying the Dutch medals that adorned his chest.
This was the essence of Java, I mused – a land where history whispered in unexpected corners, where tradition coexisted with the quirks of human nature. And at the heart of it all, the legacy of Go Tik Swan, a testament to the transformative power of a passionate soul, that one need not be shackled to one’s skin and heritage.
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